the village’s soy sauce artisans, whose craft has been perfected through generations.
How to recognize quality in clothing
OUR LOOKS WITH MUD SILK
As modern Hong Kong accelerates, Kwu Tung represents a disappearing past—one where life was slower, farms thrived on sustainable practices, and communities relied on each other. Traditional agricultural knowledge, once passed through generations, now risks being lost, replaced by a growing dependence on imported food. Even the area’s wetlands and ecosystems, vital for biodiversity, face an uncertain future despite plans for conservation efforts.
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Quality in clothing is often described, but not always easy to define.
It is not a label, and it is not always visible at first glance.
More often, it is something you begin to notice over time.
The way a piece feels, wears, and stays with you.
Sustainability has become a familiar word in fashion.
It often suggests something better—more responsible, more thoughtful.
But it is also often misunderstood.
Because when done properly, sustainability is not cheap.
And it is not meant to be.
A historic Hakka dwelling, built in 1933 by an Indonesian Chinese family, is an important cultural landmark in Kwu Tung, Sheung Shui.
1. How It Feels—Not Just at First Touch
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Many fabrics feel soft when new.
But softness alone does not indicate quality.
Some materials are designed to feel appealing at first, but lose their structure after a few wears.
Higher-quality fabrics may feel more substantial.
They are not always the softest at the beginning—but they tend to become more comfortable over time.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
2. How It Holds Its Shape
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
One of the simplest ways to recognize quality is to observe how a piece behaves after wearing and washing.
Does it hold its form? Does it drape the same way?
Or does it begin to twist, stretch, or lose balance?
Well-made clothing is designed to maintain its shape, not just in appearance, but in structure.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
3. How It Ages
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Quality becomes clearer with time.
Some pieces fade quickly, lose texture, or begin to feel worn within a short period.
Others age more quietly.
The fabric softens, but does not weaken.
The color settles, rather than disappears.
These changes are subtle, but they make a difference in how often a piece is worn.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
What you can notice immediately
While some aspects of quality reveal themselves over time, there are a few things you can observe right away—even before wearing a piece.
4. How the fabric responds to touch
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Gently hold the fabric and let it fall naturally.
Does it feel stable, or does it collapse too easily?
Higher-quality fabrics tend to have a certain presence—they move with weight and intention, rather than feeling overly light or artificial.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
5. How it recovers from movement
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Lightly press or crease the fabric in your hand, then release it.
Does it return to its original form?
Or does it remain visibly wrinkled or distorted?
This simple action can reveal how well a fabric holds its structure.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
6. How the garment is put together
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Look at the seams—not in detail, but in overall consistency.
Do they lie flat? Does the garment feel balanced when worn or held?
Even without technical knowledge, uneven construction often feels slightly 'off.'
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
7. How it feels after a few minutes
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Try wearing the piece briefly.
Notice how it sits on the body, how it moves as you walk, and whether it feels comfortable beyond the first impression.
Initial appearance can be deceiving—comfort reveals itself quickly.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
8. How Often You Choose It
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Perhaps the most practical measure of quality is how often you reach for a piece.
Clothing that is well made tends to become part of a routine.
Not because it stands out, but because it works—consistently, without effort.
Over time, these are the pieces that remain, while others gradually fall away.
Recognizing quality is not about analyzing every detail.
It is about noticing what stays, and what does not.
Once you begin to see these differences, the way you choose clothing naturally changes.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
Cost Is Shifted, Not Increased
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Sustainable clothing is often described as “more expensive.”
But the cost is not simply higher—it is structured differently.
Instead of paying less, more often, you are paying more, less often.
Over time, the total may not be greater. Only the timing is.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
Comfort Becomes Noticeable Over Time
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Comfort is rarely the headline, but it is often the deciding factor.
A well-made piece does not just hold its shape—it remains comfortable to wear.
This is something you recognize gradually, not immediately.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
Generations who have cultivated rice, vegetables and herbs now face the looming reality that their homes, livelihoods and traditions may soon be reduced to memories.
Among those most affected are the village’s soy sauce artisans, who have spent generations perfecting their craft. Beneath the Hong Kong sun, their fermentation jars hold not just soybeans, but the flavours of history—a culinary heritage passed down through time. Yet, the very workshops that safeguard these traditions are at risk of being replaced by progress that leaves no room for preservation.
Weaving
Sustainable
Memory
Sustainability is more than just materials—it is memory. It is the bridge between honouring the past and shaping the future. At RURI, we weave this philosophy into every piece we create, ensuring that mindful living is not a fleeting trend, but a lasting movement. Through eco-friendly fashion, we embrace ethical practices and recycled materials, designing clothing that is both timeless and responsible—just as Kwu Tung North’s traditions have endured for generations.
Colaboration
COLLABORATION
WITH
CHARLOTTE LAM
- Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga, and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
- The fabric is then hung until the silk has dried out.
- The silk is then spread on the ground under direct sunlight to ensure all the moisture has evaporated.
- More yam juice is then sprinkled onto the silk and again completely dried in the sun.
- The whole process (step 2 to 4) is repeated 5-6 times.
- The entire piece of silk is then completely soaked again in the yam juice and once more spread on the ground in the sunlight. This step (step 5-6) is then repeated 5-6 times.
- Finally, Iron-rich mud from the Pearl River Delta is then smeared onto the silk surface.
- The mud is then washed off and the fabric is once more dried out in the sun.
- This process is repeated around 10 times, which turns the silk black due to the chemical reaction between the iron in the mud and the tannins from the yam juice in the silk.
Charlotte Lam, known as ‘Charlotte in White,’ shares a deep connection with the values embodied by Kwu Tung. As a mindfulness coach and advocate for well-being, she helps others cultivate inner peace through meditation, yoga and holistic self-care. Her teachings encourage emotional sustainability—an approach that aligns with RURI’s commitment to mindful living and responsible consumption.
Through her workshops and writings, including her book on vegetarianism, Charlotte highlights how conscious choices extend beyond personal well-being to impact our surroundings. By simplifying our lifestyle, making mindful consumption decisions, and embracing sustainability in all aspects of life, we create harmony both internally and externally.
RURI Alignment
At RURI, these are the qualities we consider from the beginning.
Not just how a piece looks, but how it feels over time, and whether it continues to belong in your wardrobe.
Quality is rarely something that needs to be announced.
It becomes clear through use.
And once recognized, it is difficult to overlook.
At RURI, we are proud to collaborate with Charlotte as she wears our sustainable pieces in her daily life. Just as Kwu Tung reminds us of a lost way of living, Charlotte inspires a return to thoughtful, intentional existence. Together we celebrate the beauty of slow living—through fashion, wellness and a deeper appreciation for what truly matters.
THE PROCESS OF PRODUCING THIS TRADITIONAL TWO COLOR SILK FABRIC
"Vegetable Depots" were located near many village centers and were once primarily managed and operated by local farmers' cooperatives.
These depots used to play an important role in the agricultural supply chain.
VISITING THE VILLAGE
Walking through Kwu Tung North feels like stepping into a living history book. Narrow paths wind between traditional homes, where the scent of fresh soil and fermented soy sauce lingers. Villagers greet visitors with warm smiles, eager to share stories of their heritage, their craftsmanship, and their enduring connection to the land.
Photo: Soaking Silk Habotai in yam juice
Photo: Drying mud silk in the sun
Photo: Applying iron-rich mud on the silk fabric
Founder: Dawn Lee
Mindfulness Advocate: Charlotte Lam Instagram: @charlotteinwhite
Photographer: Raymond Kwong Instagram: @raymondyhwong
DISPUTE
Unfortunately the mud silk in today's market uses a plain weave instead of a leno and gauze jacquard pattern, which minimizes the true beauty of the traditional mud silk.
Footnotes
Retrieved from: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0167577X16320080